How does Hair Color Work?
How Does Permanent Hair Color Work?
There are 2 products involved in a hair color:
- The color, normally comes in a tube,
- The peroxide, generally comes in a bottle.
- It opens the hair cuticle
- It takes out some of the the melanin from the cortex of your hair to lighten your hair.
- It adds in new color molecules to recolor your hair.
What is the Difference Between Permanent & Demi-Permanent Hair Color?
Permanent and Demi-Permanent Hair Color
Both hair colors are types of oxidative color. Both contain alkaline agents which allow the coloring process to occur.
In the case of permanent hair color, the alkaline agent in the color is an ingredient called ammonia.
In the case of demi-permanent hair color, the alkaline agent is generally another alkali.
So what’s the difference?
Permanent hair colors typically lift the hair color from 3 up to 5 levels.
Demi-permanents give good coverage for women who have less than 50% grey hair and give good “tone-on-tone” color results.
But they typically offer less vibrant color results as compared to permanent hair color.
Which Color is Right For Me?
If you are looking for vibrant hair color, a big color shift, or if you have a lot of grey hair, you will need a permanent hair color to get the rich color that you are looking for.
But if you only have a little grey hair, and you want a relatively discrete hair color, not too far away from your natural level, you can go with a demi-permanen.
Both hair colors are types of oxidative color. Both contain alkaline agents which allow the coloring process to occur.
In the case of permanent hair color, the alkaline agent in the color is an ingredient called ammonia.
In the case of demi-permanent hair color, the alkaline agent is generally another alkali.
So what’s the difference?
Permanent hair colors typically lift the hair color from 3 up to 5 levels.
Demi-permanents give good coverage for women who have less than 50% grey hair and give good “tone-on-tone” color results.
But they typically offer less vibrant color results as compared to permanent hair color.
Which Color is Right For Me?
If you are looking for vibrant hair color, a big color shift, or if you have a lot of grey hair, you will need a permanent hair color to get the rich color that you are looking for.
But if you only have a little grey hair, and you want a relatively discrete hair color, not too far away from your natural level, you can go with a demi-permanen.
Does Hair Color Contain Parabens or Any Other Harmful Substances?
Parabens
have been widely used in products to prevent bacteria growth since the
1950s. They are basically a type of preservative. They are commonly used
in creams and lotions.
Some hair color brands contain parabens and some do not!
Some hair color brands do contain parabens. These parabens are usually present, ironically enought, to prevent bacterial growth in some of the conditioning agents which some manufacturers typically put in to hair color.
Other manufacturers, however. formulate their products without parabens. Some of the newer color brands now propose formulations without any parabens in them at all.
At this stage, the verdict is still out on whether parabens are truly harmful for the hair or whether they are carcinogenic for the skin.
Quality hair color brands are in general not harmful for the skin. Many of them contain oils which actually improve the condition of the hair shaft and leave the hair plumpier and shinier after coloring.
Nevertheless, it is always recommended to do a skin sensitivity test on someone who is using a hair color product for the first time.
Hair color developers often contain something called methyl paraben. This is the smallest of the parabens and is a certified anti-fungal agent used not only in cosmetics but also in food! It is also referred to as E218....
Some hair color brands contain parabens and some do not!
Some hair color brands do contain parabens. These parabens are usually present, ironically enought, to prevent bacterial growth in some of the conditioning agents which some manufacturers typically put in to hair color.
Other manufacturers, however. formulate their products without parabens. Some of the newer color brands now propose formulations without any parabens in them at all.
At this stage, the verdict is still out on whether parabens are truly harmful for the hair or whether they are carcinogenic for the skin.
Quality hair color brands are in general not harmful for the skin. Many of them contain oils which actually improve the condition of the hair shaft and leave the hair plumpier and shinier after coloring.
Nevertheless, it is always recommended to do a skin sensitivity test on someone who is using a hair color product for the first time.
Hair color developers often contain something called methyl paraben. This is the smallest of the parabens and is a certified anti-fungal agent used not only in cosmetics but also in food! It is also referred to as E218....
Sometimes Hair Color Does Not Cover My Grey Hair. Why?
If you have grey hair, you or your stylist needs to take extra measure to get a good coverage.
Firstly, you need to realize that whatever shade you have chosen for you hair color, you will have to mix it with some of the base shade of the same level. "Base shade" simply means the shade with the same number as your chosen shade, but with a "N", for Natural at the end.
So, let's say for example, that you want to dye your hair Ash Blonde (7A, in the colorists' language). Let's say that you have 50% grey hair. What color do you use?
The rule is to use in equal proportions 7A with 7. Then add your developer. Salon colorists are very familiar with this rule and learn it at hairdressing school. It is known as "The Rule of the Base".
Please note: the proportions of mix between your chosen shade and the base shade will depend on how much grey hair you have. This proportion is given in the table below. The greater percentage of grey hair, the more you need to mix in of the base shade. If course, the resultant hair color will be less vibrant but such is life! In the colorist's world, there is a trade-off between vibrancy and coverage, unfortunately.
Also note: if you have a very dark base (dark brown or brown) and very resistant grey hair, we would recommend that you use the extra coverage, or "NN" series that many manufacturers sell. These shades are designed with greater pigments and more ammonia and give a very rich, deep, coverage for resistant grey hair.
Final note: Don't be too ambitious about lifting your hair color. Once again, there is a trade-off between the color result that you can achieve and good grey hair coverage. You cannot lift the hair too much and cover grey hair at the same time. Stay within 2 levels of your natural hair level.
Firstly, you need to realize that whatever shade you have chosen for you hair color, you will have to mix it with some of the base shade of the same level. "Base shade" simply means the shade with the same number as your chosen shade, but with a "N", for Natural at the end.
So, let's say for example, that you want to dye your hair Ash Blonde (7A, in the colorists' language). Let's say that you have 50% grey hair. What color do you use?
The rule is to use in equal proportions 7A with 7. Then add your developer. Salon colorists are very familiar with this rule and learn it at hairdressing school. It is known as "The Rule of the Base".
Please note: the proportions of mix between your chosen shade and the base shade will depend on how much grey hair you have. This proportion is given in the table below. The greater percentage of grey hair, the more you need to mix in of the base shade. If course, the resultant hair color will be less vibrant but such is life! In the colorist's world, there is a trade-off between vibrancy and coverage, unfortunately.
Also note: if you have a very dark base (dark brown or brown) and very resistant grey hair, we would recommend that you use the extra coverage, or "NN" series that many manufacturers sell. These shades are designed with greater pigments and more ammonia and give a very rich, deep, coverage for resistant grey hair.
Final note: Don't be too ambitious about lifting your hair color. Once again, there is a trade-off between the color result that you can achieve and good grey hair coverage. You cannot lift the hair too much and cover grey hair at the same time. Stay within 2 levels of your natural hair level.
Ugly Duckling Ash Blonde Colors
https://www.uglyducklingcolor.com/ash/18-dark-ash-blonde-6a-8422230203921.html
https://www.uglyducklingcolor.com/ash/14-extra-light-ash-blonde-10a-8422230204560.html
Percentage Grey Hair
|
Proportion of Base Shade to Add in Your Mix
|
|---|---|
25%
|
25%
|
50%
|
50%
|
75%
|
75%
|
100%
|
100%
|
How do I Select the Right Hair Dye for Me?
The hair color that you choose is obviously a very personal decision, but we can definitely offer you a few guidelines.First, do a proper color consultation on yourself. What is your natural hair color level? What is your percentage of grey hair? What previous colors have you used, and is it still growing out on your mid-lengths? If so, your regrowth and your mid-lengths are differently colored and you will need to work out how to equalize your hair color.
For such consultation, a proper hair coloring chart is really essential. These are available these days online on major manufacturers' websites.
Grey hair coverage is the first issue. If you have a high percentage of grey hair, it is better to not stray too far away from your natural hair color. Choose a color at your natural hair color level, or darker, or at most 2 levels higher than your natural hair color and no lighter.
Apart from the level, the secondary reflect is another consideration. There is a theory that women with warm skin tones should stick to warm reflects such as gold and copper and women with cold skin tones should use cold reflects, such as ash, chestnut or cool beige. In general there is a fashion towards cold tones (ash). Ash blonde, verging on the grey, is very much in vogue among many celebrities today. So this rule of only cold skin tones choosing cold reflects is being broken every day! So in the end, the reflect is a very personal choice.
