Monday 28 December 2015

Highlift Color - Cindy Batchelor's Blonde Highlights

Cindy's Blonde Highlights

Learn more about how to use highlift color here!

Hair Bleach - How to Bleach Hair Safely & Effectively

Hair bleach is a great way to lighten your hair, and the only reliable way of doing so if you want to go really blonde.

In this article, we show you how to do a really high quality bleach job and safely and effectively!

What do I need?

You will need Hair Bleach and Hair Color Developer.

For the bleach, make sure that you are using a quality hair product. There are many bleaches on the market and they do not all work the same way. Our recommendation is Brilliant Blonde Hair Bleach from Ugly Duckling Los Angeles.



Brilliant Blonde has been designed for dark bases and gives more than 8 levels of lift. The product has been rated a category winner by consumers, and has excellent reviews on Amazon also. It lifts the hair in a controlled way without making it porous in any way.

Brilliant Blonde is available online at this website: Brilliant Blonde Hair Bleach




To get best results, use with the Ugly Duckling 30 Vol. Cream Developer.



This cream developer is also very well rated in consumer forums and has a smooth consistency and a pleasant fragrance. It's batch controlled, meaning you can be sure that when you order one you will get a fresh one that has been manufactured within the past year!



Ugly Duckling Hair Color Developer is available online here :

https://www.uglyducklingcolor.com/hair-color-developer/65-30-vol-9-cream-developer.html






How do I mix it?

The recommended mix is 1 part color to 2 parts developer. Try and aim for a fairly runny consistency. It should be fairly watery, something like glue, so that it applies easily and doesn't dry off too soon. (The mixture stops working when it dries out).

How do I apply it?

First comb the hair and make 4 large sections with it. You do this by dividing the hair first to the left and to the right. Then you divide transversely (from one ear to another). Tie up 3 of these 4 sections with a sectioning clip.

Now you are ready to start applying the mixture to the loose section. Start at the back (this is where the hair is thickest) and create mini sections and start applying quickly. You need to work fast in order to give a uniform processing time to the hair and hence get a uniform color result.

Never apply bleach directly on the scalp.

What if I want to use bleach to create blonde highlights?

You can do that too. Use foil and away you go. Please see the video below on how to do blonde highlights using bleach:


Sarah's Blonde Highlights

How long do I leave the bleach in?

You need to keep watching the hair as it lightens and be prepared to wash off as soon as it reaches your targeted level. For a guide to what the hair color looks like at each level, please refer to the image below:



What do I do next?

Wash off immediately with water. Now you will need to correct the tone of the hair because invariably an application of bleach and developer will leave the hair looking too warm. This is particularly likely to occur of you have lightened by several hair color levels.

If the hair is at a level of 5-6 after bleaching, you can choose a hair color shade anywhere up to level 8 but you will need to mix in some green to counteract the orange.

If your hair is at a level of 7-8 after bleaching, you can choose a hair color anywhere up to level 10 but you will need to mix in some violet to counteract the yellow.

If you have bleached the hair right up to a level 9-10, you can apply Ugly Duckling 10V (Very Light Blonde with a Violet Reflect). This hair color is made for toning bleached hair in one simple step.






Ugly Duckling Los Angeles is a line of professional hair colors available on line.


Ugly Duckling hair colors are all infused with Argan Oil for extra conditioning, leaving the hair smooth, soft and shiny after coloring.

To learn more about Ugly Duckling Hair Colors, visit https://www.uglyducklingcolor.com/shop-now




Happy Coloring!

Tuesday 3 November 2015

Coloring Hair Gently With Argan Oil

 

 

 

What Happens When You Color Hair?

Coloring hair using oxydation-type dyes basically involves opening up the hair cuticle, lightening the hair's natural pigments and recoloring them. This is true whether you are using permanent or demi-permanent hair dyes.

Is Hair Coloring Harmful for the Hair?

With modern day hair color, the impact on hair is typically minimal. If care is taken in the selection of hair color, you can generally even avoid parabens, as hair color containing ammoniac does not require parabens at all.

Colorants do generally contain PPD. PPD is a very popular ingredient in hair colors as it is generally a very safe ingredient and it gives the hair a very natural hair color result.However, in the case of some individuals, PPD can produce an allergic reaction on the scalp. Such reactions are relatively rare, but they can happen. This is why hair color manufacturers always recommend doing a patch test to check sensitivity to colorants before doing the coloring.

Is There a Way of Conditioning My Hair When I Color?

Ugly Duckling Hair Color is a new Professional Hair Color containing Argan Oil. The Argan Oil helps to enhance the hair color conditioning during the coloring process and results in shinier hair, softer hair, less brittle hair and a more even color deposit.


What Are the Key Benefits of Argan Oil ?

1. Shinier Hair

Argan Oil conditions the hair shaft during coloring. This means that the cuticles are better closed. This makes the hair appear glossier and shinier.

2. Softer Hair

The Argan Oil  goes into the cortex during colorin. This has the effect of improving the condition of the hair after the coloring process. This is why women who try Ugly Duckling Hair Color actually notice an improvement in their hair condition after coloring with Ugly Duckling Hair Color.

3. Repairs Brittle Hair

The Argan Oil enters into the hair and "plumps" the hair from the inside making the hair fibre making much less brittle. The effects of Argan Oil are particularly noticeable on women who have chemically altered hair ( relaxed or permed hair, for example).

4. Makes Ends Stronger

The Argan Oil-based color act on the ends and plumps them up, making a visible difference.

5. More Even Color Deposit

Because the hair shaft has been strengthened from the inside, the whole process of coloring works better. The natural pigments can be lightened at a more even rate, and re-pigmentation takes place in a more even way. Result: a more consistent, regular color, more uniform from roots to ends.

6. More Vibrant Color

Because the hair is in better condition, and because the color molecules are more evenly deposited, the hair get a much, much more vibrant Hair Color Result. 


To learn more about the effects of Argan Oil on hair, visit the following link: Argan Oil and Hair Color - The Ultimate Guide

Wednesday 21 October 2015

How does Hair Color Work?

When you color your hair, you open up the cuticle and deposit color into the cortex.

How Does Permanent Hair Color Work?

There are 2 products involved in a hair color:
  • The color, normally comes in a tube,
  • The peroxide, generally comes in a bottle.
These 2 ingredients when mixed do the following on your hair:
  • It opens the hair cuticle
  • It takes out some of the the melanin from the cortex of your hair to lighten your hair.
  • It adds in new color molecules to recolor your hair.
Typically, this process takes around 30-35 minutes (a little bit more in the case of high-lift color applications, a little bit less in the case of refresh applications).

What is the Difference Between Permanent & Demi-Permanent Hair Color?

Permanent and Demi-Permanent Hair Color

Both hair colors are types of oxidative color. Both contain alkaline agents which allow the coloring process to occur.

In the case of permanent hair color, the alkaline agent in the color is an ingredient called ammonia.

In the case of demi-permanent hair color, the alkaline agent is generally another alkali.

So what’s the difference?

Permanent hair colors typically lift the hair color from 3 up to 5 levels.

Demi-permanents give good coverage for women who have less than 50% grey hair and give good “tone-on-tone” color results.

But they typically offer less vibrant color results as compared to permanent hair color.

Which Color is Right For Me?

If you are looking for vibrant hair color, a big color shift, or if you have a lot of grey hair, you will need a permanent hair color to get the rich color that you are looking for.

But if you only have a little grey hair, and you want a relatively discrete hair color, not too far away from your natural level, you can go with a demi-permanen.
















Does Hair Color Contain Parabens or Any Other Harmful Substances?

Parabens have been widely used in products to prevent bacteria growth since the 1950s. They are basically a type of preservative. They are commonly used in creams and lotions.

Some hair color brands contain parabens and some do not!
Some hair color brands do contain parabens. These parabens are usually present, ironically enought, to prevent bacterial growth in some of the conditioning agents which some manufacturers typically put in to hair color.

Other manufacturers, however. formulate their products without parabens. Some of the newer color brands now propose formulations without any parabens in them at all.
At this stage, the verdict is still out on whether parabens are truly harmful for the hair or whether they are carcinogenic for the skin.

Quality hair color brands are in general not harmful for the skin. Many of them contain oils which actually improve the condition of the hair shaft and leave the hair plumpier and shinier after coloring.

Nevertheless, it is always recommended to do a skin sensitivity test on someone who is using a hair color product for the first time.

Hair color developers often contain something called methyl paraben. This is the smallest of the parabens and is a certified anti-fungal agent used not only in cosmetics but also in food! It is also referred to as E218....

Sometimes Hair Color Does Not Cover My Grey Hair. Why?

If you have grey hair, you or your stylist needs to take extra measure to get a good coverage.
Firstly, you need to realize that whatever shade you have chosen for you hair color, you will have to mix it with some of the base shade of the same level. "Base shade" simply means the shade with the same number as your chosen shade, but with a "N", for Natural at the end.

So, let's say for example, that you want to dye your hair Ash Blonde (7A, in the colorists' language). Let's say that you have 50% grey hair. What color do you use?

The rule is to use in equal proportions 7A with 7. Then add your developer. Salon colorists are very familiar with this rule and learn it at hairdressing school. It is known as "The Rule of the Base".

Please note: the proportions of mix between your chosen shade and the base shade will depend on how much grey hair you have. This proportion is given in the table below. The greater percentage of grey hair, the more you need to mix in of the base shade. If course, the resultant hair color will be less vibrant but such is life! In the colorist's world, there is a trade-off between vibrancy and coverage, unfortunately.

Also note: if you have a very dark base (dark brown or brown) and very resistant grey hair, we would recommend that you use the extra coverage, or "NN" series that many manufacturers sell. These shades are designed with greater pigments and more ammonia and give a very rich, deep, coverage for resistant grey hair.

Final note: Don't be too ambitious about lifting your hair color. Once again, there is a trade-off between the color result that you can achieve and good grey hair coverage. You cannot lift the hair too much and cover grey hair at the same time. Stay within 2 levels of your natural hair level.
Percentage Grey Hair
  Proportion of Base Shade to Add in Your Mix
25% 
25%
50%
50%
75%
75%
100%
100%

How do I Select the Right Hair Dye for Me?

The hair color that you choose is obviously a very personal decision, but we can definitely offer you a few guidelines.

First, do a proper color consultation on yourself. What is your natural hair color level? What is your percentage of grey hair? What previous colors have you used, and is it still growing out on your mid-lengths? If so, your regrowth and your mid-lengths are differently colored and you will need to work out how to equalize your hair color.

For such consultation, a proper hair coloring chart is really essential. These are available these days online on major manufacturers' websites.

Grey hair coverage is the first issue. If you have a high percentage of grey hair, it is better to not stray too far away from your natural hair color. Choose a color at your natural hair color level, or darker, or at most 2 levels higher than your natural hair color and no lighter.

Apart from the level, the secondary reflect is another consideration. There is a theory that women with warm skin tones should stick to warm reflects such as gold and copper and women with cold skin tones should use cold reflects, such as ash, chestnut or cool beige. In general there is a fashion towards cold tones (ash). Ash blonde, verging on the grey, is very much in vogue among many celebrities today. So this rule of only cold skin tones choosing cold reflects is being broken every day! So in the end, the reflect is a very personal choice.

How do I get Ash Blonde Highlights?

How do I get Ash Blonde Highlights ?



I try to give my Customers Ash Blonde Highlights but the Color Comes out Too Brassy. Why?

The most common reason why hair color comes out brassy and not "ashy" enough is that colorists often fail to take into account the natural yellowness or warmth that exists in all natural blonde hair.

In order to give a customer Ash Blonde, you need to lift the color and also neutralize it using Ash.  

Ugly Duckling has a very wide range of colors with strong ash pigmentation to ensure that you succeed in getting your desired Ash Blonde Highlight.

Which Colors Can I Use to Give my Customers Ash Blonde Highlights?


Step 1 : Bleach

  • This can be used for breaking the base, either using foils or as a full head application. Mix bleach with 30 Vol, make sure you get a sufficiently runny consistency and process until the color reaches the right level. Use heat to speed up the process. Then rince.

Step 2 : Ash blonde color


Once the color has been lifted, you can add in various different ashy hair tones. Some of the most commonly used are the following:
  • Extra Light Ash Blonde 10A
  • Very Light Ash Blonde 9A
  • Light Ash Blonde 8A
  • Ash Blonde 7A
  • Dark Ash Blonde 6A.
These colors will all give true ash results, that is to say they, cool tones which neutralize the underlying warmth in natural hair. You need to choose the hair color level which is most appropriate for your customer.

How About Ash Blonde Highlights ? What do I do for Ash Blonde Highlights?

Choose a combination of colors, one lighter and a darker ash blonde. This way you wil be able to give some variety and some depth and dimension to your customer's hair. 

Take bigger sections for chunky Ash Blonde Highlights or finer sections for Ash Blonde Baby Lights.

You can also use Ash Blonde colors for Balayage or Ombre coloring techniques also.

To learn more about Ash Blonde Colors, please visit this site:
https://www.uglyducklingcolor.com/highlight/59-highlight-ash-blonde-10010-8422230204034.html

Wednesday 7 October 2015

Everything You Wanted to Know About Ombre!



Ombre hair is a color choice that's still going strong - 5 years since it first arrived!

What is Ombre? It's basically when your color fades from dark to light, or light to dark, or from 1 color to any other color from the mid-lengths to the ends. See the picture below for a typical Ombre look:
  A Typical Ombre Hair Color Look

Ombre works especially well on mid-length, curly, waved or tousled hair. The ombre technique is great at giving dimension and depth to this kind of look.

Ombre has been thoroughly accepted by many of the A-list celebrities, who appreciate how flattering the color result is.

Some examples of celebrities who have colored their hair in an Ombre style:
  • Beyonce at the Grammy awards 
  • Victoria's Secret model Lily Aldridge
  • Lauren Conrad
  • Sarah Jessica Parker
  • Chanel Iman
  • Jennifer Hudson
  • Naomi Campbell
What do hairdressers think about Ombre? Celebrity hairstylist R O'Brien Lynch had this to say:

"There is a perception that Ombre is a very low maintenance hair color style and this is true when you But if a customer goes for some really gorgeous, far-out colors, such as lime-green to blonde, auburn to pink, purple to violet. than Ombre does require follow-up salon visits on a monthly basis."

What are the benefits of an Ombre hair color style?
  • Even after 5 years, Ombre is still perceived as fresh, different and rather creative.
  • It is a very flattering hair color, especially for women who are 30+. Many of them have mid-length hair and Ombre sets off this sort of hair style perfectly.
  • Ombre grows out naturally, so you do not have to go for frequent trips to the salon (unless you are going for a very daring Ombre look, or you are looking to lighten many levels above your natural hair color level).
How do Stylists Achieve an Ombre look?
  • First, in order to set the base for the Ombre look they tend to lighten, or caramelize the base area going out around 4 inches. Generally, they will use a hair color level which is fairly natural looking, going up to 1 level higher than the natural level.
  • Then they paint in the Ombre on the ends using a Balayage, or free painting technique.
  • Then they leave to process 30 - 45 minutes under heat, depending on the lightening level they are going for.
 Want to Know More About Ombre? Read "Ombre Hair Color FAQ" : 
Ombre Hair Ombre Hair Color FAQ